Banavar–Sahay Family · Mexico City

5 Nights in CDMX

Thu Aug 27 – Tue Sep 1, 2026 5 travelers: A, V, Leela (almost 4), Sanjay & Anuradha

At a Glance

Travelers (5)

  • Adithya & Vatsala — mid-30s
  • Leela — almost 4 (32+ lbs). Bedtime 7:30 PM. Tires easily; no afternoon nap.
  • Sanjay & Anuradha Sahay — late 60s. Flat-ground walking fine; no steep climbs; ~8K daily step cap.

Flights ✓ Ticketed · conf. GDGJF8

  • Outbound: DL625 · JFK 9:41 AM → MEX 12:55 PM · Thu Aug 27
  • Return: DL7976 · MEX 9:05 AM → JFK 4:28 PM · Tue Sep 1 (hotel pickup 6:30 AM)
  • All 5 travelers ticketed under Delta confirmation GDGJF8 (receipts received May 30).

Pace

Max 2 major activities per day. Mornings outdoor (rainy afternoons). Dinner by 6:30 PM. Generous rest blocks.

Booking Checklist

Top-priority bookings to lock before anything else. Each has a real deadline or supply risk.

1

Frida Kahlo (Casa Azul) — Private Guided Tour ✓ BOOKED · Ariadna Jun 1

Fri Aug 28, 10:30 AM · Private English guided tour for 5. Confirmed by Ariadna Togo Jun 1. Pay at museum on the day (guided tour + tickets). 🔴 MUST reconfirm Thu Aug 27 (day before) — call/email Ariadna or the visit auto-cancels. 15-min late = cancelled + full cost charged. Bring printed letters on the day.

Cost: $320 MXN foreign adult × 2 = 640 · $30 MXN senior × 2 = 60 · $30 MXN child × 1 = 30 · English guided tour (group rate, max 15) = 700 · Total ≈ MXN 1,430 (~$85 USD for party of 5).

Two letters required (request + thanks, both addressed to Director Perla Labarthe). Template-based content already drafted in chat. Bring printed originals on Aug 28; digital copies to follow per Ariadna's instructions.

Bonus: includes a 1-year courtesy pass to the Diego Rivera Anahuacalli Museum — we're skipping it (multi-level stone structure with stairs is hard for grandparents; doesn't fit the itinerary; far south of Coyoacán).

Contact: a.togo@museofridakahlo.org.mx

2

Rosetta lunch reservation ✓ BOOKED

Sat Aug 29, 1:00 PM, party of 5 · confirmed via Tock Jun 1. Deposit paid: $700 MXN/pp ($3,500 MXN total) — credits to the final bill. Contact at restaurant is Daniela (not Nashla). 10-min grace period; no valet parking.

⚠️ Important: "Garden" seating is actually inside per Daniela — preference flagged but not guaranteed (tables are assigned at time of arrival). 48-hr reconfirm on Wed Aug 26.

3

Quintonil lunch ✓ BOOKED · TOCK-R-SZI2IRE5

Mon Aug 31, 1:00 PM, party of 2 ONLY (A+V — Leela & grandparents do a gentle Roma morning). Booked via Tock Jun 29. Deposit $6,000 MXN (~$330, $3,000/pp) applied to the final bill — non-refundable. Suggested dining time 3 hr → done ~4 PM, back to Roma ~4:30 PM. Av. Isaac Newton 55, Polanco · +52 55 5280 2680.

🔴 No kids / no strollers — Quintonil is "guests 12 and over, no facilities for babies." Confirms the A+V-only split (Leela with grandparents). · Reducing the party forfeits the deposit; reschedule needs 72 hr notice. · Re-send the dietary brief Fri Aug 28 (3 days before); kitchen pre-confirmed allium-free for Adithya, standard vegetarian tasting for Vatsala.

Calendar event already set for June 29, 9:00 AM ET.

4

Lodging ✓ BOOKED

3BR Roma Sur Airbnb · Calle Bajío 315, Roma Sur, CDMX 06760 · Superhost Arely · Airbnb Luxe · $1,828.54 for 5 nights · Free cancellation through Aug 22. See Lodging section below for details + post-booking message to host.

5

Private airport transfer

Aug 27 arrival → use Uber XL Reserve (pre-book in app, locks ~$10–15 USD price). Pickup MEX Terminal 1 Level 2, Puerta 7–8. Bring your own RideSafer vest. See Logistics → Airport for full details.

6

Alebrije painting workshop ✓ BOOKED · conf. TAEM5R82

Sun Aug 30, 2026 · 10:30 AM – 12:45 PM CST · 5 guests · English session · beginner level · take-home alebrije per participant. Airbnb Experience 92592 — "Paint an iconic alebrije with a master artist".

📍 Meeting point: Casa Fusión, Calle Londres 37, Colonia Juárez 06600 — a design bazaar ("Bazar Fusión"), green facade, a few blocks from the Ángel de la Independencia. Uber tip: search "Bazar Fusión" — it routes straight to the studio.

Host: María · 📞 +52 55 2702 2981 (message her with any questions). Diego & Luis Rodolfo are co-hosts. Total paid: $218.70 USD ($54.95 × 5 guests − $100 Luxe coupon + $43.96 tax, Visa 0201).

🔴 Age policy flag: official listing says "guests ages 5 and up." Leela will be 3y9m. Both hosts approved her in writing (Luis Rodolfo Jun 9: "your three-year-old daughter can come, no problem" · Diego: "perfect for all ages"). Keep the Airbnb message thread / screenshots as proof in case day-of staff asks.

🔓 Free cancellation until Sat Aug 29, 10:30 AM CST (1 day before). Soft 48-hr reconfirm via the Airbnb thread to María is worth doing.

Lodging

✓ Booked · 3BR Roma Sur · King Bed · AC Superhost · Airbnb Luxe

Address: Calle Bajío 315, Roma Sur, Cuauhtémoc, CDMX 06760 · View on Google Maps

Hosted by Arely · 7 years hosting · 5.0 ★ (small review count but Luxe-vetted)

Total: $1,828.54 USD ($309.81/night × 5 + $279 tax) · paid in full or split-pay $914.27 now + $914.27 on Aug 14, no fees

Free cancellation through Aug 22, 2026 — last-chance cancel date set as a reminder

Confirmed amenities

  • 3 bedrooms · 2 bathrooms · sleeps 5 · main king + bedroom 2 (two queens) + bedroom 3 king (Leela gets her own bed — no Pack 'n Play needed)
  • Elevator (52"+ deep, 32"+ doorway — handles luggage and grandparents)
  • AC in all bedrooms · ceiling fans
  • Full kitchen, dishwasher, washer/dryer
  • Pool · gym · coworking · 24/7 security · free parking
  • $100 credit toward a service (chef, massage, etc.)

Post-booking actions

  1. Optional: message Arely to ask which side of building unit faces (Viaducto vs interior — noise) and confirm unit floor
  2. Add Aug 22 to your calendar as cancellation deadline (insurance against finding a better fit)
Day 1 Thu · Aug 27 Arrival · altitude adjustment

No agenda. Hydrate aggressively. No alcohol today. Grandparents rest before dinner.

12:55 PMLand MEX (DL625)
Clear customs + bags ~30–45 min.
1:30 PMMeet pre-booked private van transfer
Car seat pre-requested. ~35–55 min midday.
2:30 PMArrive hotel · check in · unpack
3:30 PMGentle Roma Sur stroll
Tree-lined streets right outside the Airbnb. ~15 min of slow walking — Vatsala-paced, light orientation to the neighborhood.
Flat walking · gentle
4:00 PMWalk to Chedraui Selecto (Av. Insurgentes Sur 432, Roma Sur)
~8–10 min walk from the Airbnb — same Roma Sur zip code (06760). One-stop grocery covering everyone: dairy yogurt + eggs (Vatsala + Leela), fresh produce, bread, plant milks + organic section (Adithya), snacks.
All walking · no Uber

Shopping list: dairy yogurt, eggs, bread, fruit (bananas, mangos, apples), plant milk, hummus, tomatoes, avocado, plain crackers, bottled water for daily use. Also grab the Fri Xochimilco picnic items now — peanut butter, extra fruit, corn tortillas, roasted peanuts, electrolyte sachets — so Friday morning is just assemble-and-go.

4:45 PMStop at Miga Vegana (C. Chilpancingo 129, Roma Sur)
100% vegan bakery, same zip as the Airbnb (~8–10 min walk). Grab a box of fresh conchas, croissants, cinnamon rolls for the week's breakfasts. Everything in the case is Adithya-safe — vegan pan dulce is allium-free by nature, no "sin cebolla/ajo" needed. Open Tue–Sat 9–8, Sun 9–4 (closed Mon).
All walking · 100% safe for Adithya
5:00 PMDrop groceries + pan dulce at Airbnb
~8 min walk back. Refrigerate cold items, change shoes if needed.
5:15 PMWalk to La Pitahaya Vegana (Eje 3 Sur Filadelfia 14)
~10 min walk from the Airbnb. Casual sit-down vegan Mexican; confirmed allergen-safe per their PDF on file (May 13 reply).
5:30 PMDinner · La Pitahaya Vegana · CHILL
Casual, not multi-course. Family eats freely from the full vegan menu (they're vegetarian — vegan menu is in scope). Adithya picks confirmed allium-free items per the allergen PDF. Order promptly — need to be home by 6:30 PM for Leela's bedtime routine.
Walking distance · confirmed safe · low effort
6:15 PMWalk back to Airbnb
~10 min walk.
6:30 PMHome · Leela bedtime routine
7:30 PMLeela bed
Day 2 Fri · Aug 28 Frida · Casa Azul · Xochimilco · South Day (whole family)
9:00 AMBreakfast at Airbnb · pack the trajinera picnic
Fruit, plant milk, oatmeal, Miga Vegana pan dulce. Pack the Xochimilco picnic from Thu's Chedraui groceries — Adithya's allium-free items (bread, peanut butter, fruit, tortillas, crackers) + family extras + bottled water + electrolyte sachets.
9:45 AMUber to Coyoacán (~25 min)
10:15 AMJardín Centenario walk
Flat plaza, coyote fountain, photos. Whole family.
10:30 AMFrida Kahlo Museum / Casa Azul · Private guided tour
Londres 247. Private English guided tour (Ariadna Togo confirmed May 19). ~45–60 min tour + free time. Cost: ~MXN 1,430 (~$85 USD all-in for party of 5). Bring printed letters (request + thanks). Ground floor accessible. Note: tour given in gardens, not inside rooms — guide accompanies throughout.
Whole family · private tourCobblestones nearby
11:45 AMLight bite in Coyoacán · coffee + vegan pan dulce
Café Vegetal (vegan, near Casa Azul) for coffee + pan dulce — the sweet/bakery items are allium-free, safe for Adithya too. Covers Leela's noon hunger so she's not hangry before the boat. (Family can add savory; Adithya's full meal is the boat picnic — Café Vegetal's savory dishes are NOT vetted allium-free.)
1:00 PMUber Coyoacán → Xochimilco (Cuemanco) · ~17–30 min
Casa Azul to Cuemanco is only ~8 mi — the whole reason this "South Day" works. Search Embarcadero Cuemanco (quietest of the four embarcaderos).
1:45 – 3:15 PMTrajinera · 1.5 hours · picnic lunch on the boat
Official rate MXN 750/hour per boat (not per person — refuse "per person" pitches). Boatman helps elderly + toddler aboard. Picnic = lunch — Adithya eats from the safe market goods (allium-free by selection). Seated, shaded, low-exertion.
Low effort · seated · shaded

Mosquito precaution for Vatsala (pregnant): apply picaridin 20% before boarding (pregnancy-safe). Long sleeves + light pants. Risk is low — CDMX is above the CDC 2,000 m Zika line and the canal mosquitoes are wetland species, not the Aedes Zika/dengue vector; the moving open boat also keeps them off. Midday timing = lowest activity. Confirm with OB.

⚠️ Afternoon = small rain risk (storms ~4–7 PM); the 1:45 start finishes before the worst, trajineras are roofed, pack ponchos.

3:15 PMUber back to Roma (~50–60 min)
~4:30 PMHome · rest
5:30 PMDinner · CHILL · Airbnb order-in
Order via Rappi/Uber Eats from a casual nearby spot (Pan Comido, Vegamo, Mercado Roma, or a local fonda). Eat at the Airbnb table — low effort after a full South Day. Wrap by 6:15 PM for Leela's routine.
Low-effort · Adithya-controlled
6:30 PMLeela bedtime routine starts
7:30 PMLeela bed

Steps: ~6,000. Two activities (Casa Azul + Xochimilco), both low-exertion (tour + boat); the load is in the Ubering, not the walking — Coyoacán + Xochimilco are both south, so it's one efficient loop. Whole family together all day (no split). Stairs: 1 (skippable) at Frida studio.

Day 3 Sat · Aug 29 Castle · Rosetta · Diego Rivera murals · Govinda
9:00 AMBreakfast at hotel
Slow start. Coffee, fruit, oatmeal. Optional: fresh pan dulce from the Miga Vegana run (open Sat 9–8) — all-safe for Adithya.
9:45 AMUber to Niños Héroes entrance, Chapultepec
10:00 AMTrenecito eléctrico up the hill
MXN 25–40/pp. Do NOT walk the steep approach. Sat AM trenecito queue can be 5–15 min — budget for it.
Wheelchair accessible
10:30 AMCastillo de Chapultepec
MXN 210 general · grandparents 60+ free w/ ID · under-13 free. ~75 min. Terrace views, stained-glass corridor, key rooms.
Closed Mondays
12:00 PMTrenecito down · brief lake / bench
15-min bench or quick lake glimpse. Snacks for Leela between Castle and Rosetta.
12:30 PMUber to Roma Norte (~15–20 min)
1:00 PMRosetta lunch BOOKED
Colima 166, Roma Norte. Elena Reygadas's flagship. Confirmed via Tock Jun 1 · party of 5 · deposit paid · Daniela is contact. "Garden" is actually indoors per Daniela — preference flagged, not guaranteed. Arrive on time (10-min grace, no valet). ~2 hr.
Confirmed flexible$200–325 total for 5
3:00 PMUber from Rosetta to Palacio Nacional (~20–25 min)
3:30 PMPalacio Nacional · Diego Rivera murals (60 min)
Plaza de la Constitución, Centro. Vatsala's priority block. Bring passports (foreigners need photo ID at security). Free entry. Tue–Sun 9 AM–5 PM. 60 min covers the staircase mural + first-floor panels. Benches available; elevator if stairs are too much for grandparents.
60 min · seated benches available
4:45 PMUber from Centro to Govinda (~20 min)
5:15 PMDinner · Govinda CDMX (ISKCON) ✓ Confirmed
Gobernador Tiburcio Montiel 45, San Miguel Chapultepec. Sattvic vegetarian by religious doctrine — naturally no onion, no garlic, no mushroom. Indian-Mexican fusion. Open Sat 12:30 PM – 8:30 PM. Table for 5 confirmed. Early dinner so we wrap by 6:00 PM and hit home by 6:30 PM for Leela's routine.
Naturally sattvic$

Phone/WhatsApp: +52 55 3461 0413 to confirm a Sat 5:15 PM table for 5 (1 high chair).

6:00 PMUber to Airbnb (~15 min)
6:30 PMHome · Leela bedtime routine
7:30 PMLeela bed

Steps: ~7,500. Heaviest activity day — Castle (hill via trenecito) + Rosetta + Palacio + Govinda. Pacing: every block is seated or short; 4 Uber legs in afternoon for energy savings. Castle closed Mondays — Saturday is the right slot. Avoid Sundays (free for residents = mobbed).

Day 4 Sun · Aug 30 Alebrije workshop AM · Migrante · Lord Buddha

Light/medium day after Sat's heavy Centro afternoon. Whole family. Pregnancy-aware pacing — workshop is seated, Migrante is seated, Lord Buddha is casual food hall.

9:00 AMLight breakfast at Airbnb
Yogurt, toast, fruit from Chedraui groceries. Keep it light — Migrante 6/9-course menu later in the day. Optional: pan dulce from the Miga Vegana run (open Sun 9–4) — all-safe for Adithya.
9:45 AMUber to Casa Fusión, Londres 37, Col. Juárez (~10–15 min)
In Uber, search "Bazar Fusión" — routes straight to the studio. Green-facade design bazaar, a few blocks from the Ángel de la Independencia.
10:30 AM – 12:45 PMAlebrije painting workshop · BOOKED (conf. TAEM5R82)
Airbnb Experience 92592 — 2 hr 15 min, English, take-home alebrije per participant, beginner level. Host María (+52 55 2702 2981). $218.70 paid for 5 guests. ⚠️ Bring screenshots of host messages approving Leela (3y9m) — listing policy is age 5+.
Multi-gen · seated$218.70 · paid
12:45 PMUber Casa Fusión → Roma Norte (~10 min)
Skip the home drop — go directly to Migrante area, carry alebrijes (small paper-mache, fine to bring to a courtyard restaurant). Saves ~20 min vs the home stop.
12:55 – 1:25 PMStroll Roma Norte (Plaza Río de Janeiro / Colima street)
30 min in pre-lunch mode. Gentle, shaded streets near Migrante.
1:30 PMLunch · Migrante BOOKED · OpenTable #19951
Chiapas 186, Roma Norte. Reservation confirmed via OpenTable Jun 4 · table for 5 · Sun Aug 30 at 1:30 PM. Confirmed flexible (May 18): "We can adapt some menu items by removing foods that are not permitted." Offers 6-course / 9-course / à la carte. 20-min grace period; 500 MXN/pp no-show fee. Dietary restrictions to be re-flagged on the 48-hr reconfirm.
Booked$$$

⚠️ Backup if Migrante kitchen falls short on the day: Vegamo (Mérida 83, Roma Norte). La Pitahaya is consumed on Day 1 (no repeats).

3:30 PMWalk home (~15 min)
3:45 – 5:15 PMRest at Airbnb (90 min)
Vatsala can lie down; Leela settles after workshop + lunch.
5:15 PMUber to Mercado Roma (~5 min)
5:30 PMDinner · Lord Buddha at Mercado Roma · sit-down
Indian/Nepali stall inside Mercado Roma (Querétaro 225). Pre-call to brief Jain prep. Order: vegetable samosas sin cebolla, masala dosa + coconut chutney, dal sin cebolla, plain basmati. Food-hall service = fast (~45 min sit-down). Family can browse other stalls (Gold Taco vegan, Que Bo!) if anyone wants something extra.
Review-based · verify on Sat walkthrough or call ahead$10–15/pp
6:15 PMUber home (~5 min)
6:30 PMHome · Leela bedtime routine
7:30 PMLeela bed

Steps: ~5,500. Three blocks (workshop morning + Migrante + Lord Buddha). Lighter day for Vatsala after Sat's Centro afternoon. Palacio Nacional moved to Sat afternoon (60-min visit after Rosetta).

Day 5 Mon · Aug 31 Quintonil lunch (A+V) · gentle pre-flight day
9:00 AMRelaxed breakfast at Airbnb
Slow start. Yogurt, fruit, Miga Vegana pan dulce. No rush — light day.
~11:45 AM · split

A + V · Quintonil ★★ Michelin · BOOKED

~11:45 AM Uber to Polanco (~25–30 min). 1:00 PM lunch at Isaac Newton 55 — extended tasting, vegan + allium-free, kitchen pre-confirmed. ~3 hr (their suggested dining time); back to Roma ~4:30 PM. Conf. TOCK-R-SZI2IRE5 · party of 2 · $6,000 MXN deposit (applied to bill).

Adults only (Quintonil is 12+, no strollers) — that's why Leela's with the grandparents. Re-send dietary Fri Aug 28 (3 days before).

Grandparents + Leela · gentle Roma morning

  • Stroll the Roma Sur streets · Mercado Medellín (atmospheric, kid-photogenic) · Miga Vegana for a treat
  • Low-key, walking-distance, no agenda — back to the Airbnb for Leela's quiet time / grandparents' rest by early afternoon
~4:30 – 5:00 PMWhole family regroup · rest + pack
A+V back from the 3-hr Quintonil tasting. Pack for the 6 AM departure while the evening is calm.
5:00 PMWalk to Loncheria Suvai (Zacatecas 139, Roma Norte)
~10–15 min walk. Walking-distance light dinner = ideal pre-flight pacing.
5:15 PMDinner · Loncheria Suvai
South Indian — dosa, sambar, idli, lemon rice, coconut rice. Whole-food (not mock meat), light, kid-tolerant. Confirmed flexible. A+V eat light (still full from the Quintonil tasting); grandparents + Leela have the fuller meal. No Uber, no cooking, casual.
Confirmed flexible · walking distance$10–18/pp
6:15 PMWalk back to Airbnb
~10–15 min walk.
6:30 PMHome · Leela bedtime routine · parents finish packing
7:30 PMLeela bed · early start for 6 AM Tue departure

Steps: ~4,000. One splurge (Quintonil lunch, A+V) + gentle Roma morning for the rest + walkable Suvai dinner. Lighter than the old Xochimilco Monday — deliberately easy on the pre-flight day. 7:30 PM bed is critical with the 6 AM Tue flight.

Day 6 Tue · Sep 1 Departure
5:15 AMWake · breakfast bars / fruit from market run
6:00 AMPre-booked private van pickup → MEX
~30–40 min very light morning traffic.
6:40 AMArrive MEX Terminal 1 · check in · 2h25m buffer for family international
9:05 AMDL7976 → JFK (lands 4:28 PM)

Restaurant Directory

Status reflects email outreach across 3 rounds (~29 inquiries). Updated 2026-06-08.

✓ Confirmed flexible

Quintonil ★★ Michelin · BOOKED SPLURGE

Modern Mexican · Polanco (Isaac Newton 55) · $$$$

Kitchen team consulted; confirmed dishes can be prepared without alliums. Requires 3-day advance dietary notice. Closed Sundays. Book via Tock June 29 (window opens).

✓ Booked: Mon Aug 31, 1:00 PM, A+V only · conf. TOCK-R-SZI2IRE5 · $6,000 MXN deposit (applied to bill). 3-hr tasting; adults 12+ only. Closed Aug 24–30, so Aug 31 was the only date.

Rosetta ★ Michelin · BOOKED

Italian-Mexican · Roma Norte (Colima 166) · $$$$ · 📞 +52 55 5533 7804

Chef Elena Reygadas. Daily-changing menu; kitchen confirmed dietary flexibility. Reservation: Sat Aug 29, 2026 · 1:00 PM · party of 5 · deposit $700 MXN/pp paid (credits to final bill). Contact: Daniela (not Nashla) via the same thread. 10-min grace period; no valet. Lunch 1–5:30 PM, closed Sundays. Reconfirm 48 hr before.

⚠️ "Garden" seating is inside per Daniela (Jun 1) — preference flagged at booking but tables assigned at arrival.

Loncheria Suvai

South Indian · Roma Norte (Zacatecas 139) · $$

Confirmed via email: "we have South Indian food which is vegan and food without onion and garlic." Dosa, sambar, idli, lemon rice, coconut rice. Whole-food (not mock meat).

Booked use: Mon Aug 31 dinner (chill night-before-flight, walking distance from Airbnb).

Lord Buddha Review-based · verify on Sat walkthrough

Indian/Nepali · inside Mercado Roma, Querétaro 225 · $$

HappyCow/Tripadvisor reviewers attest the owner-chef accommodates onion-free off-menu. No direct email confirmation. Pre-call/walk over to the stall during Sat afternoon to verify in person before Sun dinner.

Booked use: Sun Aug 30 dinner. 5-min Uber from Airbnb.

Vegamo Confirmed (limited)

Vegan brunch café · Roma Norte (Mérida 83) · $

Confirmed via email May 18: "limited options without onion and garlic" but offered specific dishes — fruit bowl, açaí bowl, pancakes (whole-food picks), plus Beyond burger / vegan sausage burrito / kale salad with modifications (more processed).

Trip role: Sun lunch backup if Migrante's kitchen falls short on the day (would shift breakfast→lunch role). Otherwise unused — Sun morning is now workshop + light breakfast at Airbnb.

Miga Vegana 100% vegan bakery · walkable

Vegan pan dulce / bakery · C. Chilpancingo 129, Roma Sur 06760 · ~8–10 min walk · $

100% vegan artisan bakery, baked fresh on-site daily — conchas, croissants, cinnamon rolls, chocolatines (menu changes daily). Entire case is Adithya-safe — vegan pan dulce is allium-free by nature, no "sin cebolla/ajo" needed. Same zip as the Airbnb. Hours: Tue–Sat 9 AM–8 PM · Sun 9 AM–4 PM · closed Mon.

Trip role: Day 1 (Thu) walk stop to stock breakfast pan dulce; grab-and-go breakfast option Sat & Sun mornings.

Govinda CDMX Naturally sattvic · ✓ Confirmed

Indian-Mexican vegetarian (ISKCON) · San Miguel Chapultepec (Gobernador Tiburcio Montiel 45) · $

Adjoining the ISKCON Hare Krishna temple. Sattvic by religious doctrine — no onion, no garlic, no mushroom in any dish, no email or pre-call needed. Hours (per @GovindaCDMX Instagram): Tue–Wed 12:30–7:30 PM · Thu–Sun 12:30–8:30 PM · closed Mon. ~10–15 min Uber from Condesa.

Booked use: Sat Aug 29 dinner 5:15 PM (early so we wrap by 6 PM and hit home by 6:30 PM for Leela's routine). WhatsApp +52 55 3461 0413 to confirm a table for 5 (1 high chair).

Migrante Michelin Selection · BOOKED #19951

Modern Mexican w/ global influences · Chiapas 186, Roma Norte · $$$ · 📞 55 5941 5470

Reservation: Sun Aug 30, 2026 · 1:30 PM · table for 5 · confirmed via OpenTable Jun 4 (#19951). 20-min grace period; 500 MXN/pp no-show fee. Confirmed flexible via email May 18: "Regarding onions, garlic, and leeks, we can also consider adapting some dishes." Offers 6-course / 9-course tasting OR à la carte. Re-send full dietary brief on the Aug 28 48-hr reconfirm; ask for kid-friendly plate for Leela then.

⏳ Soft / pending modification

Maximo Bistrot Confirmed but didn't fit · future trip

Modern Mexican · Roma Norte (Av. Álvaro Obregón 65 Bis) · $$$$

Confirmed flexible via email May 13: "we can accommodate your food restrictions." Chef Eduardo García sources daily. Hours Mon–Sat 1:00–11:00 PM, closed Sundays. Couldn't fit this trip — Thu chill (arrival); Fri = Casa Azul + Xochimilco South Day; Sat locked with Rosetta + Govinda; Sun closed; Mon = Quintonil lunch + Suvai. Save for a future visit when traveling without toddler + grandparents.

La Pitahaya Vegana Day 1 dinner · Thu Aug 27

Vegan Mexican · Eje 3 Sur Filadelfia 14, Roma Sur · ~10 min walk from Airbnb · $$

Confirmed-safe list (per their PDF, May 13): Hamburguesa Rosa, Tacos estilo Baja (sin pico/mayo), Nachos (sin pico). All drinks + desserts safe. Mostly processed plant-protein — acceptable for one casual arrival-day dinner; walking distance + confirmed-safe is the priority on Day 1.

Café Nin Skip — too far + thin menu

Casual all-day · Juárez (Havre 73) · $$

Elena Reygadas's casual sister to Rosetta. ~3.5 km from Calle Bajío 315 (10–15 min Uber, not walking distance). Menu is mostly salads + hummus (latter likely contains garlic). Not worth a cross-town Uber for limited Adithya-safe options. Save for future trip if staying in Juárez/Centro.

⏸ Silent · no reply after follow-up

Outreach sent May 12–13, follow-ups May 18. Treating as dead — not chasing further. Listed here for record only.

Restaurants: Lord Buddha (email — walk-in instead) · Pizza del Perro Negro · Cancino · Ojo de Maíz · Anatol · Botánico (hotmail retry) · Utopia · Café Nin · Meroma (Diana went silent post-chef-check May 13) · Loup Bar (auto-reply only — book online).

✗ Confirmed cannot accommodate

NAAN OUT

"We use onion and garlic extensively on the menu so unfortunately we cannot accommodate that specific request." (Email, May 12)

Pujol OUT

"Onion is an ingredient present in virtually all preparations on the menu and cannot be substituted or removed." (Email, May 12)

Masala y Maíz ★ OUT

"We would be delighted to welcome you to our restaurant, we unfortunately cannot accommodate your specific dietary requirements." (Email, May 13)

Em ★ OUT

"The vast majority of our dishes contain garlic and onion, as they are an essential part of traditional Veracruz-style Mexican cuisine... our sauces and some preparations do contain garlic and onion, although their flavor and aroma are not noticeable." (Email, May 13) — same dodge as Pujol; not viable for an intolerance.

Sartoria OUT

Replied twice (May 14, May 15) confirming they cannot accommodate even with cross-contamination flexibility. Vegan + allium + mushroom restrictions are too many for their pasta menu.

Asai Kaiseki OUT — too limited

Replied May 13 offering only seaweed salad, vegetable tempura, vegetable roll, nopal nigiri, natto nigiri. Not enough for a real meal.

❌ Undeliverable / no email exists

Plantasia · Rokai · Botánico (original gmail) · Ticuchi · Casa Virginia · Carmela y Sal · Lardo

Chill Dinner Delivery Picks (Thu + Mon)

For the 2 "chill" nights — order via Rappi or Uber Eats to the Airbnb. All confirmed Adithya-safe.

Best delivery options

  • Suvai (Zacatecas 139, Roma Norte) — South Indian dosa, sambar, idli. Confirmed onion/garlic-free. Kid-loves dosas. Slotted as Mon Aug 31 sit-down dinner (post-Quintonil, A+V eat light).
  • Mercado Roma food hall (Querétaro 225) — order from Lord Buddha stall for Adithya; family picks from other stalls (Gold Taco vegan, Que Bo! chocolates, Spanish baguettes). Multiple cuisines, one delivery.
  • Pan Comido (Tonalá 91, Roma Norte) — casual cafe, vegan-friendly. Light pastries, sandwiches, simple plates. Best for sandwich-style dinner.
  • Vegamo (Mérida 83) — fruit bowls, açaí bowls, Beyond burger (sin cebolla). Slightly breakfast-leaning but works for light dinner.

Setup before trip

  • Download Rappi app — works with Mexican mobile number OR international SMS. Order via app or website.
  • Or use Uber Eats via your existing Uber account.
  • Pay with credit card — both apps support international cards.
  • Most deliveries arrive in 30–45 min in Roma.

Suggested split

  • Fri Aug 28 (post-Xochimilco South Day): Pan Comido, Vegamo, Mercado Roma food hall, or local Roma Sur fonda. Low-effort hot meal at the Airbnb table after a long day of touring + the boat.
  • Day 1 (Thu) and Day 5 (Mon) are both walking-distance sit-down dinners (La Pitahaya, Suvai) — no delivery needed.

Pre-Trip Action Timeline

All the time-sensitive bookings and prep, chronologically. Calendar reminders set for each.

WhenAction
Mon Jun 29Quintonil booked — Mon Aug 31, 1:00 PM, party of 2 (conf. TOCK-R-SZI2IRE5, $6,000 MXN deposit). Quintonil was closed Aug 24–30; Aug 31 was the only date that week.
Now / ongoingeSIM optional (buy early August if wanted). All other major bookings locked — see Bookings tab.
Mid–AugPrint Casa Azul letters (request + thanks) on personal letterhead. Bring originals to the museum Aug 28. (PDF already e-signable at /Users/adithyabanavar/Downloads/FridaKahlo_GuidedTour_Letters.pdf.)
Sat Aug 22🚨 Last day to cancel Airbnb for full refund. Reconfirm Aug 27 arrival logistics with Arely.
Wed Aug 26Reconfirm Rosetta 48 hr before (Daniela, same Tock thread). Reconfirm Migrante 48 hr (OpenTable #19951; re-send full dietary brief). Pre-book Uber XL Reserve for Aug 27 12:55 PM landing.
Thu Aug 27🛫 Trip begins. 🔴 Day-before reconfirm for Casa Azul guided tour — email or call Ariadna (a.togo@museofridakahlo.org.mx) before end of day or tour auto-cancels.
Fri Aug 28Re-send Quintonil dietary requirements (3 days before the Aug 31 reservation) — do it between Casa Azul and Xochimilco.
Sat Aug 29🔓 Alebrije workshop cancellation deadline — 10:30 AM CST (1 day before). Soft 48-hr reconfirm via Airbnb to María.

Packing Checklist

  • RideSafer Vest Gen 6 Small (Blue) for Leela ✓ ordered May 16 (order #64278; ships mid-June, arrives late-June/early-July). Travel-vest format = packs in your daypack. Practice runs at home through July/August so Leela's comfortable wearing it.
  • Compact umbrellas + packable rain jackets (umbrella alone fails in CDMX storms)
  • SPF 50+ mineral sunscreen — UV 12–15 at altitude, burn time ~10 min unprotected
  • Brimmed hats for all 5 (including Leela)
  • Sunglasses for everyone including Leela
  • Closed-toe walking shoes with grip (wet cobblestones in Roma are slick)
  • Layers: t-shirts + long-sleeve + light fleece for evenings (mid-60s°F)
  • Reusable water bottles + electrolyte sachets (altitude hydration)
  • Tylenol/paracetamol, anti-diarrheal, hand sanitizer, prescription meds + copies
  • Indian comfort snacks (theplas, khakhras, dry roasted chana) for picky moments
  • Cash: stash of MXN 20/50/100 bills for tips
  • Walking sticks/canes for grandparents (or buy at any Sanborns)
  • US passports + ID confirming grandparents' age 60+ (free museum entry)
  • Screenshots of the alebrije-workshop host messages approving Leela (3y9m) — listing policy is age 5+, but María's team approved her in writing. Bring as proof.
  • Leela's busy-bag (tablet, headphones, quiet toys, snacks) — especially for Rosetta lunch (Sat) and the Fri Xochimilco boat / South Day travel
  • eSIM for Mexico (Saily / Holafly / Airalo) — optional but recommended to use Uber/Rappi without WiFi friction. Buy in early August if you want it.
  • WhatsApp installed on phones (primary way Mexican businesses communicate)
  • Picaridin 20% mosquito repellent for Vatsala (pregnancy-safe; for Xochimilco wetlands)
  • Vatsala's prenatal records (digital + printed copy)
  • Passports — required for Palacio Nacional security check Sun morning

Spanish Phrases

Hand this to the server (Adithya's dietary card)

Hola, soy vegano estricto y también sigo una dieta jainista. NO puedo comer: cebolla, ajo, champiñones, lácteos, huevo, miel, manteca, ni caldo de pollo. ¿Pueden preparar un plato fresco solo con verduras, arroz, tofu o frijoles cocinados sin cebolla y sin ajo para mí? El resto de mi familia es vegetariana sin otras restricciones. Gracias.

Short ordering phrases
  • Sin carne, sin pollo, sin pescado — no meat / chicken / fish
  • Sin huevo, sin leche, sin queso, sin mantequilla — no egg / milk / cheese / butter
  • Sin manteca — no lard (critical for beans/rice/tortillas)
  • Sin cebolla, sin ajo, sin hongos/champiñones — no onion / garlic / mushrooms
  • ¿Lleva cebolla o ajo? — Does it have onion or garlic?
  • ¿Los frijoles tienen manteca? — Do the beans have lard?
For the grandparents (simple)
  • Hola · Gracias · Por favor · · No · No, gracias
  • Agua, por favor — Water please
  • Baño — Bathroom (BAHN-yoh)
  • Ayuda — Help
  • Taxi al hotel, por favor — Taxi to hotel please
  • Print the hotel name + address on a card to hand drivers

Logistics

Airport (MEX) → Airbnb · Aug 27 arrival 12:55 PM

Recommended: Uber XL Reserve. Pre-book in the Uber app up to 90 days ahead — locks the price, no surge. ~$10–15 USD (180–260 MXN) to Roma Sur. Family-of-5 + luggage = XL. Bring your own RideSafer vest (Gen 6 Small ordered) — Uber doesn't provide car seats in Mexico.

  • Pickup at MEX Terminal 1, Level 2 (departures level), Puerta 7 or 8. NOT the street-level arrivals area (those touts are unauthorized).
  • Need working mobile data on landing — pick up an eSIM before departure (Saily, Holafly, Airalo).
  • Drive time: 35–55 min midday.

Alternatives if you'd rather have door-to-door pre-booked:

  • Cabify (local rideshare; well-rated in Mexico)
  • DiDi (also at MEX, slightly cheaper than Uber)
  • Suntransfers (private transfer ~$25–35, far cheaper than Welcome Pickups' $50+)

Avoid Welcome Pickups — overpriced for what's a 5-min Uber XL exercise.

Car seat for Leela (CDMX 2026 rules)

The law: Federal Mexican law requires all children under 12 years OR under 1.45 m to use an approved child restraint — in Uber, taxi, rental, private car, no exceptions. CDMX traffic officers do enforce, especially near schools/hospitals. Fines MXN 1,200–3,500 (~$65–190 USD).

For Leela's bracket (almost 4, 32+ lbs, ~15 kg): forward-facing with a 5-point harness. Mexico accepts seats certified to FMVSS 213 (US) or UN Reg 129 (i-Size).

Uber + airport taxis do not provide seats. Pre-booked private transfers will if you ask 24+ hours ahead.

Three options:

  • Option A · RideSafer Travel Vest, Small (recommended). ~1 lb, ~$160. Wearable harness, packs into a daypack. Sized for 3+ years and 30–60 lbs — Leela fits cleanly. Legal in Mexico (FMVSS 213) and all 50 US states — reusable for Ubers/rentals at home for years. Safety community endorses Small for age 4+.
  • Option B · Cosco Scenera Next. ~7 lb, ~$60 on Amazon, FAA-approved for the airplane seat, FMVSS 213. Bulkier to lug but gives more crash protection than a vest. Use it on every Uber. Cheaper upfront if you don't already own one.
  • Option C · rent locally. Taxi Bambino or similar will deliver a rented seat to your hotel. Adds ~$30–50 USD. Useful if you want zero luggage hassle.

My read: Option A wins for Leela's age/size. 6 lb of luggage saved, ~$100 more upfront but reusable for years of US Ubers, and safety-wise it's appropriate at 4. Confirm fit with the manufacturer size chart before buying.

Tipping
  • Restaurants: 10–15% cash on pre-tax. Check for auto-added "propina sugerida" first.
  • Hotel housekeeping: MXN 40–60/day on pillow.
  • Bellhop: MXN 25–50 per bag.
  • Tour guide: 10–15% or MXN 300–500 half-day.
Altitude (7,350 ft)

Symptoms 2–12 hr after arrival: headache, fatigue, nausea, poor sleep. Usually resolves 24–48 hr.

First 48 hr: hydrate 3–4 L/adult, NO alcohol, light meals, short walks. Day 1 = rest day.

Watch Leela for: irritability, refusing food, unusual sleepiness.

Seek care for: persistent vomiting, confusion, chest pain, severe shortness of breath at rest.

Safety

Condesa & Roma Norte are among the safest CDMX neighborhoods. Day walking is relaxed; take Uber after dark instead of long walks.

  • Fake-police "wallet inspection" scam — never hand it over. Ask for ID and walk to nearest hotel/restaurant.
  • ATM skimming — use only bank-branch ATMs (BBVA, Santander, Banorte, Scotiabank). Cover PIN.
  • Distraction pickpockets — keep wallet in front pocket / money belt for grandparents.
  • Never take unmarked street taxis. Uber / DiDi / Sitio only.
Weather (late Aug–early Sep)

Daytime 22–24°C, evenings 12–15°C. Cool, not hot.

Rain: dry mornings, thunderstorms 4–7 PM (~60–90 min, often heavy). Plan outdoor for mornings.

UV at midday: 12–15 (extreme). Burn time ~10 min unprotected.

Money
  • MXN dominates. USD accepted in tourist hotels at bad rates.
  • Cards: Visa/MC widely accepted; Amex friction common.
  • Cash: bank-branch ATMs only. Decline "convert to USD" prompt at ATM.
  • Tipping always in cash pesos preferred.
  • Notify your bank of travel dates.
Emergency contacts
  • 911 — all emergencies (English available in CDMX)
  • Tourist police: 55-5207-1007
  • LOCATEL (non-emergency): 55-5658-1111
  • US Embassy CDMX: 55-5080-2000
  • Indian Embassy: 55-5531-1050